Day 40: Djemaa El Fna...Part 1

Plaque commemorating UNESCO status

How can I put into words the spectacle that is the Place Djemaa El Fna? This is the large square in the old town of Marrakech around which the community lives and works. It has been granted UNESCO status to protect it as a 'Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity'. This means that it is recognised as a place that is special in its portrayal of Moroccan traditions such as storytelling and in its provision of musicians and performers who exhibit their culture, and it is officially recognised that these traditions which have been displayed here every day for centuries must be allowed to continue. It is, therefore, a very concentrated hive of activity both day and night, for the locals and tourists alike!

Always something going on!

We have been here many times over many years - but the spectacle never fails to amaze us! As we walk along the main road leading to the Square (this is what everyone knows it as), we can see rows of calèches lined up to our right. These are the horse-drawn carriages that will take people around the various parts of Marrakech - at a price of course. The man who drives each carriage calls out to passers-by 'Calèche, calèche', waiting for that one 'yes' that will secure him an hour's work and the equivalent of a tenner in his pocket. Many people take him up on his offer as it really is a comfortable and interesting way to see the walls of the old city or the palmeraie region, or even to hitch a ride into the new town. But we're not interested today, so we move on. Leaflets are plunged into our hands advertising spas, massages and other such beauty treatments - but quickly withdrawn as we indicate that we live here - after all, these cost money to print so they mustn't be wasted! A tout walk alongside us, attempting to convince us that we need a guide to show us the 'Berber Market' (which doesn't actually exist), but we shake him off with a firm 'La, shokran' (No, thank you) despite his continued insistence that we are very nice people and England is a lovely country and he has a brother who happens to live in Birmingham and we may know him....yeah, yeah....

Calèches all lined up and ready to go

Some are prettier than others

Beautiful horses

As we draw near to the Square we begin to hear the loud drumming that dominates all, and see that up ahead there is intense activity going on, though from this distance we cannot see any detail. We just know that soon we will be caught up in it too.

We make our way around the edge of the Square (which is really not a square but an irregular shape!) until we reach the Café de Glacier and climb the steep dark steps up to the terrace, our favourite place from which we get a bird's eye view of what is happening in the Square below. One can of course cut across the Square, but in doing so you risk the unwanted attention of a whole gamut of entertainers who will hassle you for your money. From the safety of the terrace above and sipping a glass of mint tea we look down on the activity below. Where to look first? It is a veritable feast for the eyes. There are people everywhere; they look like an army of ants as they scurry in every direction.

Part of the Square

My eyes are attracted to one of the men who has a Barbary Ape attached to his wrist by a chain. The monkey does not seem unhappy as he turns somersaults, dressed in his green t-shirt and trousers.

Cheeky monkey!

A Moroccan woman dressed head to toe in black walks past and is suddenly accosted by a different monkey who jumps onto her head and then into her arms. She is a little taken aback, but poses for a photo whilst her two little boys clamber to reach the monkey themselves. Then, of course, she must give a 'gift'.

Can I hold it, mum?

Another unsuspecting tourist

The drums seem to have taken a back seat for the moment and now I can hear the flute of a snake-charmer. I spot him just below where we are sitting - I can only actually see his modern trainers as they stick out from under the ubiquitous large green umbrella which all the snake-charmers seem to have - must have been a job lot once upon a time. Now, however, they are all in various states of decay. But the sound is definitely coming from here. There is an older man sitting on a dirty old mat beside the flute player, banging a drum with his hand, two snakes seemingly watching him. He is one of many snake-charmers I can see today, each with their own style of attracting custom.

Here's lookin' at you, kid!

Le charmeur de serpents

You play, I'll dance

The one that got away

I glance across sadly at where the Argana Cafe/Restaurant once stood; now it is unrecognisable, a shadow of the lively place we used to frequent before that very sad day, April 28th 2011, when a man made a decision to plant a bomb here. Seventeen people lost their lives that day, and Marrakech lost one of its most popular meeting places for locals and tourists alike.

The Argana

To be continued...