05 November 2011

Day 27 and 28: Home and Away

Late last night the torrential rain started and did not stop all night! This morning we wake up to howling winds to accompany it; gusts of 45 miles per hour have been recorded in Marrakech during the day, this is totally unusual weather for Morocco! 'Not normal, not normal,' mutters Said as he races past us to the security of his little house. Well, Day 27 is a total write-off weather-wise, so Mart gets on with some work and I potter around the house, making frequent cups of coffee so I can force him to have breaks and chat to me :)

It's Day 28 and we've had an invite to the Kasbah du Toubkal for lunch again (see Day 18). This time, Mike, who is the owner of the Kasbah and of our house, also Mart's boss to boot, has invited us to join him and about 80 guests who are delegates at an international travel industry conference in Marrakech. These are people from all over the world who run their own travel companies and basically Mike wants to show them what Morocco, and the Kasbah in particular, has to offer to their clients. I'm feeling a bit nervous as we don't know any of these people, except Mike - but I'm sure it will be a wonderful day.

We set off at 9.00am along the same mountainous road towards the village of Imlil. The rain has now stopped and this morning is lovely and sunny once again - what a difference a day makes. The reports are that it is very cold in the mountains, about +1 degree this morning, so out come the fleeces for the first time since we got here. The journey, though fantastically scenic, is uneventful - until we get to the village of Asni when we spot an upside down minibus at the side of the road and glass everywhere. There's been an awful accident, and many people are standing around whilst one person carries out CPR on somebody lying on the ground, covered with a blanket. We later find out that the minibus was brand new, overloaded with people and was being driven by a cocky young man who had just passed his driving test. Also, we are told that sadly a woman has died. It is a reminder to us to be very careful on these mountain roads.

The mountain road to Imlil

As we continue on our journey, an ambulance comes speeding along towards us, obviously on its way to the accident. This is an ambulance that 12 years ago would not have been here - there was no ambulance in the mountain villages until 1999 when Scorsese's film 'Kundun' about the Dalai Lama was partly filmed at the Kasbah du Toubkal and the proceeds were given to the Kasbah and the village of Imlil. Together they decided to use the money to purchase an ambulance and employ a driver who would be on call all hours to serve all the local villages. The committee of villagers that was formed at this time have continued in conjunction with the Kasbah to provide services to the local area such as waste disposal and a local hammam. Perhaps more people may have died today if this ambulance had not been provided...a sobering thought...

Autumn has arrived!

En route

Finally we reach the village of Imlil, and as usual we cannot help but smile as we walk amongst the villagers, donkeys, cows and shop sellers on our way up the hill to the Kasbah - I love this place, it is a trailhead for trekkers who want to trek in the Atlas mountains and also a starting point for muslim pilgrims who make the long trek up to the shrine of Sidi Chamharouch. The village has so much life, people of all ages going about their business, but they are never too busy to welcome a foreign face - even if it is only to say 'Don't forget to look in my shop on your way back down from the Kasbah!' Over the last few years we have got to know several people here as we walk through the village, and today, as is usual, they come out to greet us and shake our hands as if we are long lost friends. It is good to be back.

The fabulous Kasbah du Toubkal

After an hour or two of drinking coffee, chatting to the staff at the Kasbah and just admiring the views from the terraces - and this afternoon they are simply stunning with heavy snowfall having fallen overnight on the mountains - the conference delegates start to arrive, and we are ushered inside to have lunch. Much to our embarrassment Mike introduces us to the gathering as the web designers who look after all his company websites (I've been promoted!) and announces to all that we are living here for a trial period to see if we want to move permanently to Morocco! I think my husband has some explaining to do - as this was never on the cards, at least not in my books!! However, I just smile politely, and hope that the food comes quickly!

At the Kasbah

We meet all sorts of people today, and end up sitting for lunch with two guys from Scotland, a woman from Australia, two more guys from Northern Ireland - and one guy who has come all the way from Russia to this conference! The conversation is interesting as we discuss their businesses, our home lands, their views of Morocco and our own journey which has led us here today. We all agree that we have much to learn about ourselves from the simplicity of life we see all around us here in Morocco. All too soon, lunch is over and after a guided tour of the Kasbah we all set off down to the village again for our return journeys.

Low cloud on Toubkal

Looking down the valley

A 'rainbow' of cloud on the mountain



The Kasbah viewed from Imlil

As we walk down the hill we are joined by one local young man we have come to know quite well, Hamid. He has a shop in the village, and we often stop and have a chat with him. Today we accept his kind offer of some refreshing mint tea, or 'Berber whisky' as they call it here. He leads us up several flights of stairs, past rooms adorned with carpets and rugs on the walls, to the roof terrace of his shop, where there are more wonderful views over the mountains.

Mart and Hamid

It is lovely to spend time with him and learn a little more about everyday life in Imlil and how the Kasbah has had a great influence on the life of this little community. He also tells us that he has some land near the village if we are interested in buying it with a view to building a house - we are sorely tempted. We are sad to leave, but darkness is descending and we have to watch that mountain road!

We arrive home to some wonderful news...Mrs Dog has given birth to five puppies today.....but more on that in my next blog!

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