A few of my favourite things.....

What is there not to love about living in Tahannaout?

Here's just a few of my favourite things......

• Waking up to the sound of birdsong at dawn when the world is coming alive and a new day is dawning....
  

A beautiful Roller

• Opening the wooden shutters of the bathroom window to allow the sunlight to stream in...
• Looking out across the tiered garden over the heads of the silver birch and olive trees towards the village of Derb Chems (meaning 'Sunshine street' - very apt)....
• Hearing the cat miaowing on the patio to be let into the house for her breakfast...
• Opening the blinds of the salon to reveal at least two of the four guard dogs running around the yard playing together, then suddenly stopping as they see me and start running towards the door to be made a fuss of, tails wagging profusely....

Hello, we're here....

• The other two dogs sprawling somewhere in the vast garden stare up at the window as the blinds go up, then roll over before running to the house...for them, all is well with the world...there are people here who feed them, pet them and love them...
• I can see from my window the High Atlas mountains standing majestically, towering above Tahannaout village and mosque...will they have another dusting of snow today?

Snow on Oukaimeden

• What amazing formations are the clouds making today as they float effortlessly above in the baby blue sky?

Beautiful cloud formations in the mountains

• Builders singing as they hoist buckets of cement up to the roof of the neighbouring house...at this rate it'll be years before it's finished...but who cares?
• The smiling face of Said, the guardian, as he parks his bike and greets us with freshly baked flat bread he has fetched for us from the nearest village..."Hello Mr Martin, Mrs Kathy...How are you, fine?"
• The humming sound of the aeroplanes circling above and performing aerobatics, weaving in and out of each other and leaving trails of smoke in the sky...
• The haunting call to prayer from the mosques situated all around the valley...
• The storks circling far above our heads in the evening light, higher and higher till they are only a small dot in the sky...

Storks landed in a neighbour's field

• The swarms of egrets that fly low past the windows and land on the telegraph wires or the highest trees, all seemingly vying for the best position...

Egrets sitting in a tree in the garden

• The deafening cacophony of the birdsong as I try to read my book whilst lounging on a deckchair in the garden...
• The sound of the sheep bleating in the neighbouring field and rustling in the hedges...

A local shepherd boy with his sheep

• The bulbuls chasing each other from tree to tree in courtship...
• Butterflies, geckos, frogs, skinks, shrews, crickets, locusts, bats, owls, all manner of birds....

Goldfinch

Scruffy playing with a locust

Gertie Gecko

• The snorting of the elusive boar who hides somewhere in the bushes...
• The family of mongooses we caught sight of once as they ambled along the piste to our house...

• The snakes who managed to find their way into our courtyard last summer...
• Hanging washing on the makeshift clothes line, tied between an olive tree and a silver birch and propped up with a piece of wood complete with hook - and knowing that by evening it will all be dry...
• Sipping strong morning coffee outside with my hubby, sitting on the low raffia stools so popular in Morocco...
• Hearing the ee-aw-ing of the local donkeys and mules as they carry their loads along the piste...

Mule at work

• The sight and smell of the lamb tagine as it sits on the flame, crafted by the hands of my wonderful hubby...and the sizzling and bubbling as I lift the lid to get a peek of the evening meal...

Yummy tagine with Moroccan flat bread

• Beautiful sunrises, sunsets, stars and full moons as viewed from our roof terrace...

Sunset over Derb Chems

A full moon

• The warmth from the wood burner on a chilly evening after the sun has gone down...

Keeping off the chill

And all that's BEFORE we leave the house....

Anyone for Méchoui?

Did any of you watch the TV programme about 2 years ago called Jamie Does Marrakech where the said chef, Jamie Oliver, wanders round Marrakech looking at the everyday life of people living here and the types of food they eat? Well, I did. Ever since then I've wanted to seek out some of the places he visited for myself. And today I have stumbled across one of these whilst shopping in the souks. This is the area fondly known as Méchoui Alley.

It's nearly 1pm and we are certainly ready for a bite to eat. It's hard work wandering amongst all these shops selling beautiful goods such as colourful swathes of fabric, babouches (slippers), djellabas, Berber teapots with glasses, wooden boxes so intricately carved, belly-dancing costumes - and even mops and buckets if you're desperate! Oh, and of course not to mention the latest must-have - Dr. Dre headphones - 'genuine fakes' we are informed with a smile from a friendly young shopkeeper. So it is we head off in the direction of the spicy smells wafting through the air.

We wander down a narrow alley, dodging the motorbikes and the men carrying sacks on their backs, until we see ahead of us a line of three or four stalls which seem to be serving the same thing - lamb in all its glory. As Jamie explained, as many as 30 lambs at any one time are cooked underground here just behind the stalls in a hole in the ground. They are roasted on a spit which the assistant then brings to the stall where the meat is taken off the bone and served along with some freshly-made flat bread to hungry locals - and now to the more adventurous tourist also. We see some people buying the cooked lamb by the kilo, no doubt to take home and share with their families. This is weighed out on old-fashioned brass scales using heavy metal weights, a real blast from the past.

A freshly cooked lamb just taken off the spit

Yummmmmm!

Having requested some bread and meat, one of the assistants leads us to a nearby café and up a rickety staircase to the terrace where he gestures to us to sit down to eat our lunch. (NB In Marrakech you need to have long legs to climb some of these steps - they are so high it's ridiculous!) A tray soon arrives laden with the most succulent lamb I have ever tasted! People here don't believe in wasting food, so we have not only the meat on our plate but also the pure fat of the meat, bones and the skin. Served with a glass of Berber Whisky (Mint tea), we are in our element as we allow the lamb to slide between our fingers and strip the bones bare. There's no way one can eat this in a civilised manner!

Me digging in!

From our high vantage point we have a fabulous view over the Djemma El Fnaa and can also look down onto the many olive stalls below where people are gathering to buy a selection of the finest-looking olives and preserved lemons I've ever seen, no doubt to add to their tagines this evening. Alongside the olive stalls is another stall selling fresh mint, a delightful accompaniment.

Olive stalls

Anyone for mint?

How many olives can be eaten in one day?

Nuss kilo? (Half a kilo?)

From the rooftop terrace we can also see down into the square below as people mill around the shops and partake of a thirst-quenching orange juice, freshly squeezed by the amicable juice sellers - a bargain at 4dh a glass (approx 30p). Thirsty work all that shopping!

If you fancy a peek at Jamie Does Marrakech, I'd highly recommend it. This is a link to the programme: http://www.channel4.com/programmes/jamie-does/4od

In the meantime, I shall continue to dream of that succulent lamb.....mmmmmmm..........

Medersa Ben Youssef

 

Who'd have thought a school could look like this?! The 16th-century Medersa Ben Youssef  (Koranic school) really is a spectacle to behold. As we enter through the door and walk along the narrow corridor taking us into the central courtyard, we wonder what all the fuss is about - but then we hit the courtyard! To say it is stunning does not describe the scene before us. At the centre of this enormous courtyard lies a rectangular marble pool lined with zellij tiles, reflecting the amazing intricately-carved cedar wood and plaster of the walls which surround it. Archways are to be seen all around the courtyard, each appearing more decorative than the last. The colourful wall tiles complete the picture.

The grand central courtyard

Detail of zellij tiling and stucco

Stunning facades and columns

Structural diversity

As required by Islamic law, the carvings on the windows and doors bear no reference to animals or humans, but rather consist of inscriptions and repeated geometric patterns. Motifs of palms and pine cones are also used to adorn the walls, apparently to serve the purpose of providing a three dimensional surface to the walls.

Through the arched window

As we look up we can see many ornate arched windows which look out onto the courtyard. One might be fooled into thinking these were the students' rooms and thinking how wonderful it would have been to study here..But no. These serve merely to throw light along the narrow corridors...the students' rooms, of which there are more than 100, are clustered in sixes and sevens facing inwards onto inner lightwells. It's hard to fathom how over 800 students at any one time were housed and educated here. 

Internal corridor

We climb the internal stairs and find ourselves looking across the courtyard through some of these ornately-carved arched windows situated along the corridors.

The upper level

Detail of an archway

The students' rooms themselves are very small and dark, appearing very medieval, almost like the cells of monks. It must have been a frightening place for those children who were away from home for the first time.

Two rooms are set up to show how the students' rooms would have looked in the 16th century - except of course the artifacts are now set up in well-lit rooms so visitors can see clearly and gain an insight into how life must have been. Students from the city and also those from the surrounding villages would have the following items in their room: a small writing desk with ink well, a quill to write with, a copy of the Koran and other manuscripts, a candle or oil lamp,  a tea tray with glasses, a tagine to cook food in, a pot of water for ablutions, a sheepskin prayer mat, a small cushion and a sleeping mat. For the city student the items would have been made of ceramics and bronze; the village student would have items made of pottery and clay. The distinction was made between rich and poor at every turn.

A room for a village student

A room for a city student

A window grille

Artwork on a pillar

 It is hard to believe that this school was still in use as recently as 1962 despite its lack of modern facilities. In 1998 the building was used in the making of the film Hideous Kinky starring Kate Winslet where it served as an Algerian Suffic retreat centre - a film well-worth seeing for those interested in life in Morocco.

Storks galore

Walking around the Djemma El Fnaa in the evening at dusk is a wonderful experience. The food stalls are arriving as carts pulled by barrow boys - only to be transformed within minutes to fully-functioning instruments of food heaven whose smoke wafts through the air calling people to sample their delights. The day shift of henna tatooists, medicine men and palm readers all depart, leaving room for storytellers, dancers and musicians to take their place as the evening encroaches. 

But if you look upwards you will see amazing birds circling up and up, higher and higher into the sky, their vast wings outstretched...these are the most revered birds in Marrakech, the storks. There are many stories told as to why they are to be found here and why they demand such a revered status...but whichever is true, the fact remains...the offence of disturbing a stork carries with it a three-month prison sentence.

Soaring overhead

One such story told is that of a local imam (islamic priest) who gets very drunk and then climbs the minaret of the mosque, blaspheming as he goes, thus committing two grave sins. Instantly God's wrath is poured out on him and he is transformed into a stork. The stork is white and black owing to the colours of the djellabah and robe the imam was wearing at the time of committing these most vile sins. Believers of this story would claim that this is why storks are often to be seen with a prayer-like posture when at rest. Even before the arrival of Islam, however, an old Berber belief was held that storks are really transformed humans. In fact, up until recent years, there was even a hospital in Marrakech which cared for ill or dying storks, so strongly held was this belief!

It is with eagerness then that I set out to find these beautiful birds at close quarters. I'm told the best place to see them is at El Badii Palace. We make our way down dusty narrow roads, dodging the ubiquitous menacing mopeds, until we arrive at an opening - high above us we can see a giant nest straggling the wall, craggy twigs hanging down...but the nest is empty. We continue further until we reach the entrance to the palace. El Badii translates as The Incomparable - and indeed we can see that we are now standing in the ruins of what was once a magnificent palace. Not much is left to see, just an enormous courtyard which houses a large rectangular pool (now empty of course) and the remains of an irrigation system which served to water the four sunken gardens which still remain today. The crumbling walls glow a wonderful ochre colour in the early evening sunlight and even now the gardens are full of orange trees, lemon trees and beautiful flowers. How much more beautiful would this garden have been when complete with the turquoise filled pool, I wonder.  Apparently, so the story goes, this palace was built in the 16th century by Ahmed El Mansour and the walls and ceilings were encrusted with gold from Timbuctoo. When the sultan saw how wonderful it looked he asked his fool what he thought - the response was somewhat prophetic - that the palace "would make a fine ruin." And indeed his words ring true. Sadly, the sultan died soon after the palace was complete (it took 25 years to build!) and after only a century of standing tall, the Merenid sultan, Moulay Ismail, had it stripped bare and removed all the riches, transferring them to his new capital at Meknes. What a sad ending to such a beautiful place. Climbing up the steep steps to the ramparts, this is what most visitors now come to see - the storks who nest along the walls.

El Badii Palace

Evening glow on the walls

Up close and personal

In flight

Lined up on the walls

I gaze out over the rooftops of the medina, pondering what has gone before, when suddenly a stork swoops low and lands perfectly on its target - a giant nest not far away from where I am standing. Such grace and ease of flight astounds me. As I watch, others come into land, and before I know it, they are lined up along the wall in their various nests and poses - probably just waiting for the throng of visitors to get snapping. I am one of those! Unfortunately, all too soon we are ushered out as the palace is closing...so we continue on to another haunt of the storks, so we are told...Kosybar. This is indeed a place of comfort with soft seating, low lights and a lovely ambience - though the prices are a bit high! From the terrace we look out over the Place des Ferblantiers, the square where the beautiful lanterns you see everywhere are made, and watch as the storks swirl above our heads. George Orwell once described them as "great white birds...glittering like scraps of paper". I sort of know what he means. The word for stork in arabic is laq-laq and this sure describes the sound they make. It is like a moped idling or castanets being clattered together. If you repeat the word laq-laq aloud repetitively, I'm sure you'll get the idea. This is the sound to which we fast become accustomed as dusk falls.

Kosybar

Detail of lantern

Stork and palm trees

Huge nests they build

View towards the mountains

Sunset

Whether the visitor to Marrakech likes these majestic birds or not, one thing is for certain...they are here to stay!